Wednesday, July 13, 2011
Medical supplies - CORRECTION
This is a correction of my previous post on medical supplies. Apparently you can't get sterile saline solution for IV from vet supplies now without a license either. Will let you know if the order for the syringes goes through. As of last I looked they were still available from Tractor Supply.
Tuesday, July 12, 2011
Medical supplies
As many survivalists know, you can still get veterinary supplies. I recently placed an order with
Medical and Veterinary Supply
I got some of these syringes:
SYRINGE,5CC 21 X 1",L/L,100/BX (x2)
and some
0.9% SODIUM CHLOR FOR INJ. 1000 ML IV BAG (x12)
cost was $33. 88 plus $10 shipping
They would have been difficult to obtain otherwise.
Medical and Veterinary SupplyI got some of these syringes:
SYRINGE,5CC 21 X 1",L/L,100/BX (x2)
and some
0.9% SODIUM CHLOR FOR INJ. 1000 ML IV BAG (x12)
cost was $33. 88 plus $10 shipping
They would have been difficult to obtain otherwise.
Wednesday, March 9, 2011
Rem870 duckgun to tactical shotgun
Here is my Rem 870 "before" in it's duckgun configuration:
Here it is after changing the 26" barrel with remchokes to a 20" imp cyl barrel with rifle-type sights:
Now to install a magazine extension kit. I bought a "+2 round" magazine extension kit made by Pro Mag. It is model PM159 for Rem 870/1100/11-87 models. It seems to be good quality anodized aluminum in a matte black which matches the matte black finish on my shotgun. Be sure to pick the one for your shotgun.
At first I thought I wanted a +3 round extension to go with my 20" barrel. But then I read somewhere that it would stick out beyond the end of the barrel too much. The +2 extension sticks out a little beyond my 20" barrel, but I guess I can live with that.
The newer model Rem 870's like mine have "dimples" in the magazine tube that must be removed before using the magazine extensions. Most people simply "Dremel" them out. I was hesitant to do so and found a site that tells how to press them out without ruining your magazine tube:
http://www.rem870.com/2010/01/17/removing-dimples-on-remington-870-magazine-tube/
But then I decided that I probably wasn't going to go back to the duckgun configuration. If I did go duckhunting again, I could still legally hunt with the mag extension, I'd just need to remember to add a longer "plug" before I went! :)
So, here I go with my Dremel. The mag extension kit came with good instructions for removal of your old mag tube spring, including instructions for people who have the newer 870's with the plastic cap spring retainer. Note that it probably isn't necessary for you to completely remove the dimples. If you can get rid of enough of the dimples for everything to work, but not make holes through the side of your magazine tube that would be better, not allowing dirt etc inside your mag tube. But if you don't remove enough it won't function properly. When you work the slide, if the shells aren't pushed into the action under force and simply fall, then you know you didn't remove enough. Do it again. And then function test it again, etc etc until it works perfectly. Then take everything apart and clean it thoroughly to get rid of all the bits of Dremel stone & filings.
So here it is with the +2 mag extension:
Next I need to look at the stock.
Here it is after changing the 26" barrel with remchokes to a 20" imp cyl barrel with rifle-type sights:
Now to install a magazine extension kit. I bought a "+2 round" magazine extension kit made by Pro Mag. It is model PM159 for Rem 870/1100/11-87 models. It seems to be good quality anodized aluminum in a matte black which matches the matte black finish on my shotgun. Be sure to pick the one for your shotgun.
At first I thought I wanted a +3 round extension to go with my 20" barrel. But then I read somewhere that it would stick out beyond the end of the barrel too much. The +2 extension sticks out a little beyond my 20" barrel, but I guess I can live with that.
The newer model Rem 870's like mine have "dimples" in the magazine tube that must be removed before using the magazine extensions. Most people simply "Dremel" them out. I was hesitant to do so and found a site that tells how to press them out without ruining your magazine tube:
http://www.rem870.com/2010/01/17/removing-dimples-on-remington-870-magazine-tube/
But then I decided that I probably wasn't going to go back to the duckgun configuration. If I did go duckhunting again, I could still legally hunt with the mag extension, I'd just need to remember to add a longer "plug" before I went! :)
So, here I go with my Dremel. The mag extension kit came with good instructions for removal of your old mag tube spring, including instructions for people who have the newer 870's with the plastic cap spring retainer. Note that it probably isn't necessary for you to completely remove the dimples. If you can get rid of enough of the dimples for everything to work, but not make holes through the side of your magazine tube that would be better, not allowing dirt etc inside your mag tube. But if you don't remove enough it won't function properly. When you work the slide, if the shells aren't pushed into the action under force and simply fall, then you know you didn't remove enough. Do it again. And then function test it again, etc etc until it works perfectly. Then take everything apart and clean it thoroughly to get rid of all the bits of Dremel stone & filings.
So here it is with the +2 mag extension:
Next I need to look at the stock.
Saturday, March 5, 2011
Handload your own buckshot loads
I've been busy lately, that's why no recent posts. It seems that you can either DO something, or you can TALK about it. Hard to do both at the same time. At least for a 65 year old like me. "Happy birthday to me".
Anyway, roll your own buckshot loads. That is, handloading 12 ga. buckshot loads. I figure it's a no-brainer. Buckshot loads are expensive to buy and much cheaper when you make your own. Here's how.
To load shotgun shells you need the various components and a few tools. You can get the high-dollar shotshell reloaders, or you can buy a Lee Load All II. I elected to go cheap.
NOTE: buy or borrow the shotshell handbook BEFORE you get the components because you have to have a "recipe" that shows which hulls, powder, and shot go together. DON'T buy the hulls and powder and then try to find a load that uses them. They may not work together.
I was lucky and found a load that uses Federal Gold Medal Plastic cases. I say lucky, because brassmanbrass.com is selling once-fired "Federal Medium Base Shotgun hulls" 500 ct for $12.50 Otherwise find some once-fired hulls somewhere THAT ARE ALL ALIKE and that are listed in your Lyman's Shotshell handbook with a load for your gauge and size. Ballistic Products sells some for around $10/100. (No hazmat for hulls.) You can order shotshell primers over the internet, but then you have to pay a "hazmat" charge to have them delivered. Best is to shop around and get some cheap locally. I was all set to place an internet order for some Wolf shotshell primers at $21.00/1000 from Wideners (plus shipping, plus hazmat!), but then I found a place near me (ammunitiontogo.com near Brenham,TX) that had NobelSport 209 shotshell primers for $21.95. I was able to pick them up in person at their store so no shipping and no hazmat!
OK, here's what I did. YMMV.
Lee Load All II (12 ga) $45 (Widener's Reloading & Shooting Supply)
Lyman's 5th Ed. Shotshell handbook $16.50 (Widener's Reloading & Shooting Supply)
"Federal Medium Base Shotgun hulls" 500 ct for $12.50 (brassmanbrass.com)
NobelSport 209 primers (ammunitiontogo.com) $21.95/1,000 (in person- no hazmat)
2 lb Bluedot powder from McBrides in Austin TX at $20.95/lb (in person- no hazmat)
Claybuster CB1138-12 WAA12R wads 500 pack (Ballistic Products) $8.99 + shipping
Lee 18-cavity bullet mold (330 diameter) 00 buckshot (MidwayUSA or Ebay) about $46
Lee Production Pot IV $47.69 birthday price from MidwayUSA
I also bought 8# of 00 buckshot from Ballistic Products just to be able to get started and make sure that everything would work OK. But you don't need to do that. The 8# of 00 buck cost $34.90 + about $10 shipping. It loaded about 91 loads using 12 @ 00 buck. That is what the load I selected calls for.
What that tells me is that every 8# of 00 buckshot that I cast myself using free lead that I had is saving me about $35-45 over the cost of store-bought buck shot pellets. So far I've cast about 48# of buckshot pellets, so that means that I've saved about $210-270 so far on pellets alone.
I need to load a few more loads before I can give an estimate of how much I've saved by making my own rather than buying them. But here's the kicker. The hulls can be reloaded a few times. You can probably scrounge more lead or wheelweights. If you have enough primers, powder, and wads that means that you can turn 500 hulls into one or two thousand loads!
The shotshell reloading handbook, the buckshot mold, the lead Production pot are one-time purchases. The more you load/reload, the cheaper your loads wind up costing. Post SHTF you probably won't have electricity to run the Lee Production pot. But then again, hopefully you can load up enough before that happens so that you are ready. I also inherited a cast iron melting pot and dipper. In a survivalist situation one could be improvised and lead could be melted using a wood fire, assuming you have some lead. Since the lead in batteries these days could have harmful alloys and you really don't want to have to be out and about scrounging post SHTF anyway, the best thing would be to get a stockpile of lead now. I recently priced lead locally at $.65/lb and wheelweights at $.75/lb. They will go up soon. Get 'em while you can.
I am posting a couple videos about casting the buckshot just to give you an idea. I went faster when I wasn't making the video. It's hard to concentrate on doing something like that and try to make a video at the same time. More details later.
Well, I uploaded 3 videos about casting the buckshot called buckshot_start, buckshot2, and buckshot3. In buckshot2 where I said I didn't think the lead and mold weren't hot enough, that really probably wasn't the problem. What I realized is that sometimes the pour spout gets partly clogged. When the lead comes out too slow, then it cools too quickly - which is similar to the lead not being hot enough to start with. Also, if the distance the lead drops from the pour spout to the mold is too far it cools too quickly - which is similar to the lead not being hot enough to start with. In any of the cases where it cools off too quickly the result is that not all of the cavities will be filled completely. To prevent the pour spout from getting clogged, use purer lead, clean the spout from time to time with a suitably sized paper clip, stir the lead and dip off impurities.
Anyway, roll your own buckshot loads. That is, handloading 12 ga. buckshot loads. I figure it's a no-brainer. Buckshot loads are expensive to buy and much cheaper when you make your own. Here's how.
To load shotgun shells you need the various components and a few tools. You can get the high-dollar shotshell reloaders, or you can buy a Lee Load All II. I elected to go cheap.
NOTE: buy or borrow the shotshell handbook BEFORE you get the components because you have to have a "recipe" that shows which hulls, powder, and shot go together. DON'T buy the hulls and powder and then try to find a load that uses them. They may not work together.
I was lucky and found a load that uses Federal Gold Medal Plastic cases. I say lucky, because brassmanbrass.com is selling once-fired "Federal Medium Base Shotgun hulls" 500 ct for $12.50 Otherwise find some once-fired hulls somewhere THAT ARE ALL ALIKE and that are listed in your Lyman's Shotshell handbook with a load for your gauge and size. Ballistic Products sells some for around $10/100. (No hazmat for hulls.) You can order shotshell primers over the internet, but then you have to pay a "hazmat" charge to have them delivered. Best is to shop around and get some cheap locally. I was all set to place an internet order for some Wolf shotshell primers at $21.00/1000 from Wideners (plus shipping, plus hazmat!), but then I found a place near me (ammunitiontogo.com near Brenham,TX) that had NobelSport 209 shotshell primers for $21.95. I was able to pick them up in person at their store so no shipping and no hazmat!
OK, here's what I did. YMMV.
Lee Load All II (12 ga) $45 (Widener's Reloading & Shooting Supply)
Lyman's 5th Ed. Shotshell handbook $16.50 (Widener's Reloading & Shooting Supply)
"Federal Medium Base Shotgun hulls" 500 ct for $12.50 (brassmanbrass.com)
NobelSport 209 primers (ammunitiontogo.com) $21.95/1,000 (in person- no hazmat)
2 lb Bluedot powder from McBrides in Austin TX at $20.95/lb (in person- no hazmat)
Claybuster CB1138-12 WAA12R wads 500 pack (Ballistic Products) $8.99 + shipping
Lee 18-cavity bullet mold (330 diameter) 00 buckshot (MidwayUSA or Ebay) about $46
Lee Production Pot IV $47.69 birthday price from MidwayUSA
I also bought 8# of 00 buckshot from Ballistic Products just to be able to get started and make sure that everything would work OK. But you don't need to do that. The 8# of 00 buck cost $34.90 + about $10 shipping. It loaded about 91 loads using 12 @ 00 buck. That is what the load I selected calls for.
What that tells me is that every 8# of 00 buckshot that I cast myself using free lead that I had is saving me about $35-45 over the cost of store-bought buck shot pellets. So far I've cast about 48# of buckshot pellets, so that means that I've saved about $210-270 so far on pellets alone.
I need to load a few more loads before I can give an estimate of how much I've saved by making my own rather than buying them. But here's the kicker. The hulls can be reloaded a few times. You can probably scrounge more lead or wheelweights. If you have enough primers, powder, and wads that means that you can turn 500 hulls into one or two thousand loads!
The shotshell reloading handbook, the buckshot mold, the lead Production pot are one-time purchases. The more you load/reload, the cheaper your loads wind up costing. Post SHTF you probably won't have electricity to run the Lee Production pot. But then again, hopefully you can load up enough before that happens so that you are ready. I also inherited a cast iron melting pot and dipper. In a survivalist situation one could be improvised and lead could be melted using a wood fire, assuming you have some lead. Since the lead in batteries these days could have harmful alloys and you really don't want to have to be out and about scrounging post SHTF anyway, the best thing would be to get a stockpile of lead now. I recently priced lead locally at $.65/lb and wheelweights at $.75/lb. They will go up soon. Get 'em while you can.
I am posting a couple videos about casting the buckshot just to give you an idea. I went faster when I wasn't making the video. It's hard to concentrate on doing something like that and try to make a video at the same time. More details later.
Well, I uploaded 3 videos about casting the buckshot called buckshot_start, buckshot2, and buckshot3. In buckshot2 where I said I didn't think the lead and mold weren't hot enough, that really probably wasn't the problem. What I realized is that sometimes the pour spout gets partly clogged. When the lead comes out too slow, then it cools too quickly - which is similar to the lead not being hot enough to start with. Also, if the distance the lead drops from the pour spout to the mold is too far it cools too quickly - which is similar to the lead not being hot enough to start with. In any of the cases where it cools off too quickly the result is that not all of the cavities will be filled completely. To prevent the pour spout from getting clogged, use purer lead, clean the spout from time to time with a suitably sized paper clip, stir the lead and dip off impurities.
Thursday, February 10, 2011
Dual purpose fixed blades
I think survivalists need to think not only in terms of a utility knife for woodcraft or general survivalist use, I think we need to also think in terms of a back-up self-defense weapon. Here are some knives that I think would serve dual purpose for survivalists:
Ontario Knives
Survival knife .1875" thick 5" blade 1095 carbon steel
M7 bayonet (M16) .1875" thick 6.75" blade 1095 carbon steel
Marine combat .165" thick 7" blade 1095 carbon steel
Mark III trench knife.1875" thick 6.75" blade 1095 carbon steel
Mark 3 Navy .165" thick 6.5" blade 440A stainless steel
Marine bayonet (M16) .200" thick 8" blade prop. carbon steel
SP1 Marine combat .188" thick 7" blade 1095 carbon steel
Spec Plus Fighter .1875" thick 8" blade 1095 carbon steel
Becker knives (mostly made with 0170-6C carbon steel)BK-1 Brute (bolo like) .250" thick 9.5" blade
BK-2 Companion .250" thick 5.25" blade
BK-7 Combat utility .188" thick 5.5" blade
BK-9 Bowie .210" thick 9" blade
BK-10 Crewman utility .188" thick 5.5" blade
Ontario Knives
Survival knife .1875" thick 5" blade 1095 carbon steel
M7 bayonet (M16) .1875" thick 6.75" blade 1095 carbon steel
Marine combat .165" thick 7" blade 1095 carbon steel
Mark III trench knife.1875" thick 6.75" blade 1095 carbon steel
Mark 3 Navy .165" thick 6.5" blade 440A stainless steel
Marine bayonet (M16) .200" thick 8" blade prop. carbon steel
SP1 Marine combat .188" thick 7" blade 1095 carbon steel
Spec Plus Fighter .1875" thick 8" blade 1095 carbon steel
Becker knives (mostly made with 0170-6C carbon steel)BK-1 Brute (bolo like) .250" thick 9.5" blade
BK-2 Companion .250" thick 5.25" blade
BK-7 Combat utility .188" thick 5.5" blade
BK-9 Bowie .210" thick 9" blade
BK-10 Crewman utility .188" thick 5.5" blade
Tuesday, February 8, 2011
Affordable 12ga buckshot loads
I mentioned that I've never reloaded shotgun shells. That is about to change. I'm going to buy a Lee Load All II in 12 ga for about $45 at Widener's. Also a Lyman Shotshell Reloading Handbook 5th ed for $16.50. I already have an order for a Lee 18 cavity 00 buckshot mold from Ebay $47.95 + 7.35 shipping. It will cast enough 00 buckshot in one pour for 2 shells. Buckshot loads are expensive if you buy them!
I already had some lead and some linotype. For emergency use I have a CI pot to melt the lead in and a long handled steel ladle, but for now I think I'll get a Lee electric pot for about $50.
Then, being set up for using lead, it might be a good idea to buy a mold to be able to cast 7.61x39 bullets also. Just wish I had a little more reloadable brass for it. Most of what I have is steel cased or Berdan primed brass.
I already had some lead and some linotype. For emergency use I have a CI pot to melt the lead in and a long handled steel ladle, but for now I think I'll get a Lee electric pot for about $50.
Then, being set up for using lead, it might be a good idea to buy a mold to be able to cast 7.61x39 bullets also. Just wish I had a little more reloadable brass for it. Most of what I have is steel cased or Berdan primed brass.
Saturday, February 5, 2011
Friday, February 4, 2011
Perimeter alarm (trip flare) assembly correction
Oops!
I should have included this between steps 8 and 9:
Insert firing pin into the 3/8" pipe so that the pointed end will rest on the primer.
I should have included this between steps 8 and 9:
Insert firing pin into the 3/8" pipe so that the pointed end will rest on the primer.
Perimeter alarm (trip flare) details
Hmm. Well they resized my photo so that you can't read my notes. OK, here's a list:
1. spring assortment Harbor Freight item 67562
2. universal clevis pin assortment Harbor Freight item 67629
3. 3/8x6" steel pipe nipple-drill small hole about 3/8" from end of pipe for one end of spring to go through4. short (5"?) piece of 3/4" pvc pipe
5. Federal No. 209A shotshell primers (fits inside 1/8"xclose brass nipple)
6. Watts A-715 1/8"xclose brass pipe nipple
7. 1/2x3/8" reducer coupling
8. Watts A-826 Pipe Bushing 1/2"MIPx1/8"FIP - (I ground the end with the flat corners down all the way to the threads, so that it can be threaded *backwards* into the1/2" end of the reducer coupling.
9. 5/16" bolt - grind head to fit inside 3/8" pipe and cut to 1 1/2" long with with end ground to a 1/8" flat point. (This makes the firing pin.)
10. 11/32x 1 27/32" extension spring from above assortment.
11. 1/4"x2" clevis pin from above assortment. Grind the head off, so that it fits completely inside spring.
12. Hitch pin clip from above assortment. Spread it slightly so that there is no resistance when it is pulled out of clevis pin.
ASSEMBLY:
1. Modified clevis pin fits completely inside spring.
2. Put one end of spring through 3rd hole of clevis pin. (Other end will go through hole drilled in 3/8" pipe)
3. Take a piece of stiff wire and bend the end to hook first hole of clevis pin. (I will make a "flare assembly video" so you can see what I mean.)
4. Insert stiff wire holding clevis pin through end of pipe that has the hole until the unattached end of the spring is near the hole drilled in the pipe. Using some small needle nosed pliers, maneuver the unattached end of the spring through the hole and grab it with another pair of pliers. (You do have 3 hands, don't you?) Trust me. It can be done. Pull any extra wire to the outside and tape with ducttape so that it doesn't go back inside.
5. Pull end of stiff wire until 2nd hole in clevis pin is visible at the other end of the pipe, then insert clevis pin clip through it to keep it from going back into the pipe.
6. Screw the 1/8"xclose brass pipe nipple into 1/2"MIPx1/8"FIP Pipe Bushing.
7. Screw that assembly into the 1/2x3/8" reducer coupling such that the 1/8" pipe nipple is sticking up into the 3/8" end of the 1/2x3/8" reducer coupling. Yes, that's what I said. You may need to make sure that the square end that you ground off is ground down enough so that it doesn't get in the way. Also make sure that it's ground down right up to where the threads start. You might need to use a Dremel and touch it up with a little file. (A little mill file, or a little bastard.) :) I did it, so you ought to be able to.
8. Insert a No. 209A shotshell primer into the end of the 1/8" brass pipe nipple. It should fit perfectly.
9. Now screw the entire assembly (now containing a primer) onto the 3/8" pipe nipple. Your trip mechanism is now armed.
10. Duct tape the piece of 3/4" pvc pipe onto the 1/2" end of the 1/2"x3/8" reducer coupling.
11. You can put a couple 30 grain .50 pyrodex pellets inside the pvc pipe, if you wish to make it more visible. *Don't* confine it or it could rupture the pvc pipe. You could put a balloon over the open end to keep it waterproof, if you wish.
12. Securely attach the alarm device to a tree or something and carefully tie a length of nylon monofilament fishing line (say about 30# test) to the clevis pin clip and tie the other end to something. That is your "trip wire".
1. spring assortment Harbor Freight item 67562
2. universal clevis pin assortment Harbor Freight item 67629
3. 3/8x6" steel pipe nipple-drill small hole about 3/8" from end of pipe for one end of spring to go through4. short (5"?) piece of 3/4" pvc pipe
5. Federal No. 209A shotshell primers (fits inside 1/8"xclose brass nipple)
6. Watts A-715 1/8"xclose brass pipe nipple
7. 1/2x3/8" reducer coupling
8. Watts A-826 Pipe Bushing 1/2"MIPx1/8"FIP - (I ground the end with the flat corners down all the way to the threads, so that it can be threaded *backwards* into the1/2" end of the reducer coupling.
9. 5/16" bolt - grind head to fit inside 3/8" pipe and cut to 1 1/2" long with with end ground to a 1/8" flat point. (This makes the firing pin.)
10. 11/32x 1 27/32" extension spring from above assortment.
11. 1/4"x2" clevis pin from above assortment. Grind the head off, so that it fits completely inside spring.
12. Hitch pin clip from above assortment. Spread it slightly so that there is no resistance when it is pulled out of clevis pin.
1. Modified clevis pin fits completely inside spring.
2. Put one end of spring through 3rd hole of clevis pin. (Other end will go through hole drilled in 3/8" pipe)
3. Take a piece of stiff wire and bend the end to hook first hole of clevis pin. (I will make a "flare assembly video" so you can see what I mean.)
4. Insert stiff wire holding clevis pin through end of pipe that has the hole until the unattached end of the spring is near the hole drilled in the pipe. Using some small needle nosed pliers, maneuver the unattached end of the spring through the hole and grab it with another pair of pliers. (You do have 3 hands, don't you?) Trust me. It can be done. Pull any extra wire to the outside and tape with ducttape so that it doesn't go back inside.
5. Pull end of stiff wire until 2nd hole in clevis pin is visible at the other end of the pipe, then insert clevis pin clip through it to keep it from going back into the pipe.
6. Screw the 1/8"xclose brass pipe nipple into 1/2"MIPx1/8"FIP Pipe Bushing.
7. Screw that assembly into the 1/2x3/8" reducer coupling such that the 1/8" pipe nipple is sticking up into the 3/8" end of the 1/2x3/8" reducer coupling. Yes, that's what I said. You may need to make sure that the square end that you ground off is ground down enough so that it doesn't get in the way. Also make sure that it's ground down right up to where the threads start. You might need to use a Dremel and touch it up with a little file. (A little mill file, or a little bastard.) :) I did it, so you ought to be able to.
8. Insert a No. 209A shotshell primer into the end of the 1/8" brass pipe nipple. It should fit perfectly.
9. Now screw the entire assembly (now containing a primer) onto the 3/8" pipe nipple. Your trip mechanism is now armed.
10. Duct tape the piece of 3/4" pvc pipe onto the 1/2" end of the 1/2"x3/8" reducer coupling.
11. You can put a couple 30 grain .50 pyrodex pellets inside the pvc pipe, if you wish to make it more visible. *Don't* confine it or it could rupture the pvc pipe. You could put a balloon over the open end to keep it waterproof, if you wish.
12. Securely attach the alarm device to a tree or something and carefully tie a length of nylon monofilament fishing line (say about 30# test) to the clevis pin clip and tie the other end to something. That is your "trip wire".
Thursday, February 3, 2011
Ammo - a renewable resource?
Well, not exactly. But there are things that can be done now to make sure that you have enough ammo when you need it.
If you have brass-cased, boxer primed ammo it can be reloaded. You will need reloading equipment, plus bullets, powder, and primers. All that sounds expensive, but it isn't when compared to the cost of ammo these days. A renewable source of bullets *is* available if you have bullet molds for the calibers you use. Lead can be scrounged or salvaged. The best is "hard cast" which is an alloy of lead and tin (usually), but in an emergency pure lead can be used if the bullets have the correct diameter and you don't try to push them too fast. Although it's theoretically possible to load some calibers with black powder, and black powder can theoretically be made, I wouldn't try it or depend on it. Better to simply stock up on the correct gun powder while you can.
Regarding "boxer primed", be aware that some European or Russian ammo may be Berdan primed, even if it is brass cased. And if so there is no easy practical way to reload it. Boxer primed ammo has one hole in the center of the brass when the bullet is pulled, the powder removed, and you look at the bottom of the inside of the case. Berdan primed brass will have 2 little holes instead of one in the center. Also, the Berdan primers that I've seen so far look rounded when looked at from the outside of the case, while Boxer primers look flat. Best to buy some brass cased boxer primed ammo now, or at least some "once-fired" reloadable brass and primers. Widener's and other places sometimes have some good deals on bulk once-fired brass and bulk new or pulled bullets in the military calibers.
.22 ammo is cheap compared to other calibers and it is wise to have a good supply. Shotshells are outrageously expensive, and I don't know if there is a way around that. I know that they can be reloaded, though I've never done it. But that would require another set of reloading tools. And components are not as cheap or easily obtained as they used to be.
If you have brass-cased, boxer primed ammo it can be reloaded. You will need reloading equipment, plus bullets, powder, and primers. All that sounds expensive, but it isn't when compared to the cost of ammo these days. A renewable source of bullets *is* available if you have bullet molds for the calibers you use. Lead can be scrounged or salvaged. The best is "hard cast" which is an alloy of lead and tin (usually), but in an emergency pure lead can be used if the bullets have the correct diameter and you don't try to push them too fast. Although it's theoretically possible to load some calibers with black powder, and black powder can theoretically be made, I wouldn't try it or depend on it. Better to simply stock up on the correct gun powder while you can.
Regarding "boxer primed", be aware that some European or Russian ammo may be Berdan primed, even if it is brass cased. And if so there is no easy practical way to reload it. Boxer primed ammo has one hole in the center of the brass when the bullet is pulled, the powder removed, and you look at the bottom of the inside of the case. Berdan primed brass will have 2 little holes instead of one in the center. Also, the Berdan primers that I've seen so far look rounded when looked at from the outside of the case, while Boxer primers look flat. Best to buy some brass cased boxer primed ammo now, or at least some "once-fired" reloadable brass and primers. Widener's and other places sometimes have some good deals on bulk once-fired brass and bulk new or pulled bullets in the military calibers.
.22 ammo is cheap compared to other calibers and it is wise to have a good supply. Shotshells are outrageously expensive, and I don't know if there is a way around that. I know that they can be reloaded, though I've never done it. But that would require another set of reloading tools. And components are not as cheap or easily obtained as they used to be.
Perimeter alarm (trip flare) details to come
Well, the video is up now. You can't see much, except the results of the primer and 60 gr. of Pyrodex going off. It makes enough noise to alert you if someone tripped it and if you were on guard. My prototype doesn't really illuminate what tripped it.
The main thing is that I built it using common hardware items. I will post details of the trip mechanism design when I get back from Sam's. They have 25# sacks of cornmeal that I intend to put in the oven to kill the weevil eggs and then repack into mylar bags/buckets with CO2 or nitrogen.
The main thing is that I built it using common hardware items. I will post details of the trip mechanism design when I get back from Sam's. They have 25# sacks of cornmeal that I intend to put in the oven to kill the weevil eggs and then repack into mylar bags/buckets with CO2 or nitrogen.
Wednesday, February 2, 2011
Introduction
Howdy! I'm Mudturkle, a Christian survivalist from Central Texas. (What country are y'all from?) :)
I'm new to this, so bear with me. I intend to post things designed to help Christians survive the difficult times prior to the return of the Lord which I believe that we are going into. I've studied Bible prophecy for 20+ years now and have gradually realized that the commonly taught version of the end times is wrong. I won't be going into that very much here. I do that at my Yahoo!Groups forum. Here I intend to focus mostly on nuts and bolts survivalist things, but with a Christian viewpoint. Keep in mind that when I say Christian viewpoint, I don't mean as it's taught in most organized churches. I mean from the viewpoint of a mature Christian who is pretty familiar with the Bible. If I EVER say anything here that anyone feels is un-Scriptural, please speak up.
I will say a few things up front about my end times beliefs before moving on to things more related to survivalism. Most people think that end times prophecies are hard to understand. Well, it is hard to understand the commonly taught version because it doesn't make sense and most of it is not even from the Bible. It's like a story that is told and retold and embellished every time that it's retold. This would not have happened if people would read the Bible for themselves. It also helps if you take the Bible literally whenever possible. That is, it says exactly what it means, and means exactly what it says. (God is old, but He's not senile. And He's a lot smarter than most people give Him credit for!) I wrote a book about the end times which is available free on my Yahoo!Groups site. I also intend to publish it on Kindle for those who believe that if someone is giving something away it must not be worth anything. ;)
Anyway - on to survivalist related stuff, from a (mature) Christian viewpoint. By mature Christian I mean not the wimpy, watered down, Walt Disney la-la land that many Christians seem to be stuck in. In their defense I have to say that it's understandable that they would remain BABES IN CHRIST, because they have only been fed milk all their Christian life. Think that's too strong of a statement? Think it's un-Scriptural?
1 And I, brethren, could not speak unto you as unto spiritual, but as unto carnal, even as unto babes in Christ. 2 I have fed you with milk, and not with meat: for hitherto ye were not able to bear it, neither yet now are ye able. 3 For ye are yet carnal: for whereas there is among you envying, and strife, and divisions, are ye not carnal, and walk as men? 4 For while one saith, I am of Paul; and another, I am of Apollos; are ye not carnal? 1 Cor 3:1-4 (KJV)
Is there any difference between saying "I am of Paul" or saying "I am a Lutheran/Catholic/Pentecostal (etc)?
I'm new to this, so bear with me. I intend to post things designed to help Christians survive the difficult times prior to the return of the Lord which I believe that we are going into. I've studied Bible prophecy for 20+ years now and have gradually realized that the commonly taught version of the end times is wrong. I won't be going into that very much here. I do that at my Yahoo!Groups forum. Here I intend to focus mostly on nuts and bolts survivalist things, but with a Christian viewpoint. Keep in mind that when I say Christian viewpoint, I don't mean as it's taught in most organized churches. I mean from the viewpoint of a mature Christian who is pretty familiar with the Bible. If I EVER say anything here that anyone feels is un-Scriptural, please speak up.
I will say a few things up front about my end times beliefs before moving on to things more related to survivalism. Most people think that end times prophecies are hard to understand. Well, it is hard to understand the commonly taught version because it doesn't make sense and most of it is not even from the Bible. It's like a story that is told and retold and embellished every time that it's retold. This would not have happened if people would read the Bible for themselves. It also helps if you take the Bible literally whenever possible. That is, it says exactly what it means, and means exactly what it says. (God is old, but He's not senile. And He's a lot smarter than most people give Him credit for!) I wrote a book about the end times which is available free on my Yahoo!Groups site. I also intend to publish it on Kindle for those who believe that if someone is giving something away it must not be worth anything. ;)
Anyway - on to survivalist related stuff, from a (mature) Christian viewpoint. By mature Christian I mean not the wimpy, watered down, Walt Disney la-la land that many Christians seem to be stuck in. In their defense I have to say that it's understandable that they would remain BABES IN CHRIST, because they have only been fed milk all their Christian life. Think that's too strong of a statement? Think it's un-Scriptural?
1 And I, brethren, could not speak unto you as unto spiritual, but as unto carnal, even as unto babes in Christ. 2 I have fed you with milk, and not with meat: for hitherto ye were not able to bear it, neither yet now are ye able. 3 For ye are yet carnal: for whereas there is among you envying, and strife, and divisions, are ye not carnal, and walk as men? 4 For while one saith, I am of Paul; and another, I am of Apollos; are ye not carnal? 1 Cor 3:1-4 (KJV)
Is there any difference between saying "I am of Paul" or saying "I am a Lutheran/Catholic/Pentecostal (etc)?
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