Wednesday, July 13, 2011
Medical supplies - CORRECTION
This is a correction of my previous post on medical supplies. Apparently you can't get sterile saline solution for IV from vet supplies now without a license either. Will let you know if the order for the syringes goes through. As of last I looked they were still available from Tractor Supply.
Tuesday, July 12, 2011
Medical supplies
As many survivalists know, you can still get veterinary supplies. I recently placed an order with
Medical and Veterinary Supply
I got some of these syringes:
SYRINGE,5CC 21 X 1",L/L,100/BX (x2)
and some
0.9% SODIUM CHLOR FOR INJ. 1000 ML IV BAG (x12)
cost was $33. 88 plus $10 shipping
They would have been difficult to obtain otherwise.
Medical and Veterinary SupplyI got some of these syringes:
SYRINGE,5CC 21 X 1",L/L,100/BX (x2)
and some
0.9% SODIUM CHLOR FOR INJ. 1000 ML IV BAG (x12)
cost was $33. 88 plus $10 shipping
They would have been difficult to obtain otherwise.
Wednesday, March 9, 2011
Rem870 duckgun to tactical shotgun
Here is my Rem 870 "before" in it's duckgun configuration:
Here it is after changing the 26" barrel with remchokes to a 20" imp cyl barrel with rifle-type sights:
Now to install a magazine extension kit. I bought a "+2 round" magazine extension kit made by Pro Mag. It is model PM159 for Rem 870/1100/11-87 models. It seems to be good quality anodized aluminum in a matte black which matches the matte black finish on my shotgun. Be sure to pick the one for your shotgun.
At first I thought I wanted a +3 round extension to go with my 20" barrel. But then I read somewhere that it would stick out beyond the end of the barrel too much. The +2 extension sticks out a little beyond my 20" barrel, but I guess I can live with that.
The newer model Rem 870's like mine have "dimples" in the magazine tube that must be removed before using the magazine extensions. Most people simply "Dremel" them out. I was hesitant to do so and found a site that tells how to press them out without ruining your magazine tube:
http://www.rem870.com/2010/01/17/removing-dimples-on-remington-870-magazine-tube/
But then I decided that I probably wasn't going to go back to the duckgun configuration. If I did go duckhunting again, I could still legally hunt with the mag extension, I'd just need to remember to add a longer "plug" before I went! :)
So, here I go with my Dremel. The mag extension kit came with good instructions for removal of your old mag tube spring, including instructions for people who have the newer 870's with the plastic cap spring retainer. Note that it probably isn't necessary for you to completely remove the dimples. If you can get rid of enough of the dimples for everything to work, but not make holes through the side of your magazine tube that would be better, not allowing dirt etc inside your mag tube. But if you don't remove enough it won't function properly. When you work the slide, if the shells aren't pushed into the action under force and simply fall, then you know you didn't remove enough. Do it again. And then function test it again, etc etc until it works perfectly. Then take everything apart and clean it thoroughly to get rid of all the bits of Dremel stone & filings.
So here it is with the +2 mag extension:
Next I need to look at the stock.
Here it is after changing the 26" barrel with remchokes to a 20" imp cyl barrel with rifle-type sights:
Now to install a magazine extension kit. I bought a "+2 round" magazine extension kit made by Pro Mag. It is model PM159 for Rem 870/1100/11-87 models. It seems to be good quality anodized aluminum in a matte black which matches the matte black finish on my shotgun. Be sure to pick the one for your shotgun.
At first I thought I wanted a +3 round extension to go with my 20" barrel. But then I read somewhere that it would stick out beyond the end of the barrel too much. The +2 extension sticks out a little beyond my 20" barrel, but I guess I can live with that.
The newer model Rem 870's like mine have "dimples" in the magazine tube that must be removed before using the magazine extensions. Most people simply "Dremel" them out. I was hesitant to do so and found a site that tells how to press them out without ruining your magazine tube:
http://www.rem870.com/2010/01/17/removing-dimples-on-remington-870-magazine-tube/
But then I decided that I probably wasn't going to go back to the duckgun configuration. If I did go duckhunting again, I could still legally hunt with the mag extension, I'd just need to remember to add a longer "plug" before I went! :)
So, here I go with my Dremel. The mag extension kit came with good instructions for removal of your old mag tube spring, including instructions for people who have the newer 870's with the plastic cap spring retainer. Note that it probably isn't necessary for you to completely remove the dimples. If you can get rid of enough of the dimples for everything to work, but not make holes through the side of your magazine tube that would be better, not allowing dirt etc inside your mag tube. But if you don't remove enough it won't function properly. When you work the slide, if the shells aren't pushed into the action under force and simply fall, then you know you didn't remove enough. Do it again. And then function test it again, etc etc until it works perfectly. Then take everything apart and clean it thoroughly to get rid of all the bits of Dremel stone & filings.
So here it is with the +2 mag extension:
Next I need to look at the stock.
Saturday, March 5, 2011
Handload your own buckshot loads
I've been busy lately, that's why no recent posts. It seems that you can either DO something, or you can TALK about it. Hard to do both at the same time. At least for a 65 year old like me. "Happy birthday to me".
Anyway, roll your own buckshot loads. That is, handloading 12 ga. buckshot loads. I figure it's a no-brainer. Buckshot loads are expensive to buy and much cheaper when you make your own. Here's how.
To load shotgun shells you need the various components and a few tools. You can get the high-dollar shotshell reloaders, or you can buy a Lee Load All II. I elected to go cheap.
NOTE: buy or borrow the shotshell handbook BEFORE you get the components because you have to have a "recipe" that shows which hulls, powder, and shot go together. DON'T buy the hulls and powder and then try to find a load that uses them. They may not work together.
I was lucky and found a load that uses Federal Gold Medal Plastic cases. I say lucky, because brassmanbrass.com is selling once-fired "Federal Medium Base Shotgun hulls" 500 ct for $12.50 Otherwise find some once-fired hulls somewhere THAT ARE ALL ALIKE and that are listed in your Lyman's Shotshell handbook with a load for your gauge and size. Ballistic Products sells some for around $10/100. (No hazmat for hulls.) You can order shotshell primers over the internet, but then you have to pay a "hazmat" charge to have them delivered. Best is to shop around and get some cheap locally. I was all set to place an internet order for some Wolf shotshell primers at $21.00/1000 from Wideners (plus shipping, plus hazmat!), but then I found a place near me (ammunitiontogo.com near Brenham,TX) that had NobelSport 209 shotshell primers for $21.95. I was able to pick them up in person at their store so no shipping and no hazmat!
OK, here's what I did. YMMV.
Lee Load All II (12 ga) $45 (Widener's Reloading & Shooting Supply)
Lyman's 5th Ed. Shotshell handbook $16.50 (Widener's Reloading & Shooting Supply)
"Federal Medium Base Shotgun hulls" 500 ct for $12.50 (brassmanbrass.com)
NobelSport 209 primers (ammunitiontogo.com) $21.95/1,000 (in person- no hazmat)
2 lb Bluedot powder from McBrides in Austin TX at $20.95/lb (in person- no hazmat)
Claybuster CB1138-12 WAA12R wads 500 pack (Ballistic Products) $8.99 + shipping
Lee 18-cavity bullet mold (330 diameter) 00 buckshot (MidwayUSA or Ebay) about $46
Lee Production Pot IV $47.69 birthday price from MidwayUSA
I also bought 8# of 00 buckshot from Ballistic Products just to be able to get started and make sure that everything would work OK. But you don't need to do that. The 8# of 00 buck cost $34.90 + about $10 shipping. It loaded about 91 loads using 12 @ 00 buck. That is what the load I selected calls for.
What that tells me is that every 8# of 00 buckshot that I cast myself using free lead that I had is saving me about $35-45 over the cost of store-bought buck shot pellets. So far I've cast about 48# of buckshot pellets, so that means that I've saved about $210-270 so far on pellets alone.
I need to load a few more loads before I can give an estimate of how much I've saved by making my own rather than buying them. But here's the kicker. The hulls can be reloaded a few times. You can probably scrounge more lead or wheelweights. If you have enough primers, powder, and wads that means that you can turn 500 hulls into one or two thousand loads!
The shotshell reloading handbook, the buckshot mold, the lead Production pot are one-time purchases. The more you load/reload, the cheaper your loads wind up costing. Post SHTF you probably won't have electricity to run the Lee Production pot. But then again, hopefully you can load up enough before that happens so that you are ready. I also inherited a cast iron melting pot and dipper. In a survivalist situation one could be improvised and lead could be melted using a wood fire, assuming you have some lead. Since the lead in batteries these days could have harmful alloys and you really don't want to have to be out and about scrounging post SHTF anyway, the best thing would be to get a stockpile of lead now. I recently priced lead locally at $.65/lb and wheelweights at $.75/lb. They will go up soon. Get 'em while you can.
I am posting a couple videos about casting the buckshot just to give you an idea. I went faster when I wasn't making the video. It's hard to concentrate on doing something like that and try to make a video at the same time. More details later.
Well, I uploaded 3 videos about casting the buckshot called buckshot_start, buckshot2, and buckshot3. In buckshot2 where I said I didn't think the lead and mold weren't hot enough, that really probably wasn't the problem. What I realized is that sometimes the pour spout gets partly clogged. When the lead comes out too slow, then it cools too quickly - which is similar to the lead not being hot enough to start with. Also, if the distance the lead drops from the pour spout to the mold is too far it cools too quickly - which is similar to the lead not being hot enough to start with. In any of the cases where it cools off too quickly the result is that not all of the cavities will be filled completely. To prevent the pour spout from getting clogged, use purer lead, clean the spout from time to time with a suitably sized paper clip, stir the lead and dip off impurities.
Anyway, roll your own buckshot loads. That is, handloading 12 ga. buckshot loads. I figure it's a no-brainer. Buckshot loads are expensive to buy and much cheaper when you make your own. Here's how.
To load shotgun shells you need the various components and a few tools. You can get the high-dollar shotshell reloaders, or you can buy a Lee Load All II. I elected to go cheap.
NOTE: buy or borrow the shotshell handbook BEFORE you get the components because you have to have a "recipe" that shows which hulls, powder, and shot go together. DON'T buy the hulls and powder and then try to find a load that uses them. They may not work together.
I was lucky and found a load that uses Federal Gold Medal Plastic cases. I say lucky, because brassmanbrass.com is selling once-fired "Federal Medium Base Shotgun hulls" 500 ct for $12.50 Otherwise find some once-fired hulls somewhere THAT ARE ALL ALIKE and that are listed in your Lyman's Shotshell handbook with a load for your gauge and size. Ballistic Products sells some for around $10/100. (No hazmat for hulls.) You can order shotshell primers over the internet, but then you have to pay a "hazmat" charge to have them delivered. Best is to shop around and get some cheap locally. I was all set to place an internet order for some Wolf shotshell primers at $21.00/1000 from Wideners (plus shipping, plus hazmat!), but then I found a place near me (ammunitiontogo.com near Brenham,TX) that had NobelSport 209 shotshell primers for $21.95. I was able to pick them up in person at their store so no shipping and no hazmat!
OK, here's what I did. YMMV.
Lee Load All II (12 ga) $45 (Widener's Reloading & Shooting Supply)
Lyman's 5th Ed. Shotshell handbook $16.50 (Widener's Reloading & Shooting Supply)
"Federal Medium Base Shotgun hulls" 500 ct for $12.50 (brassmanbrass.com)
NobelSport 209 primers (ammunitiontogo.com) $21.95/1,000 (in person- no hazmat)
2 lb Bluedot powder from McBrides in Austin TX at $20.95/lb (in person- no hazmat)
Claybuster CB1138-12 WAA12R wads 500 pack (Ballistic Products) $8.99 + shipping
Lee 18-cavity bullet mold (330 diameter) 00 buckshot (MidwayUSA or Ebay) about $46
Lee Production Pot IV $47.69 birthday price from MidwayUSA
I also bought 8# of 00 buckshot from Ballistic Products just to be able to get started and make sure that everything would work OK. But you don't need to do that. The 8# of 00 buck cost $34.90 + about $10 shipping. It loaded about 91 loads using 12 @ 00 buck. That is what the load I selected calls for.
What that tells me is that every 8# of 00 buckshot that I cast myself using free lead that I had is saving me about $35-45 over the cost of store-bought buck shot pellets. So far I've cast about 48# of buckshot pellets, so that means that I've saved about $210-270 so far on pellets alone.
I need to load a few more loads before I can give an estimate of how much I've saved by making my own rather than buying them. But here's the kicker. The hulls can be reloaded a few times. You can probably scrounge more lead or wheelweights. If you have enough primers, powder, and wads that means that you can turn 500 hulls into one or two thousand loads!
The shotshell reloading handbook, the buckshot mold, the lead Production pot are one-time purchases. The more you load/reload, the cheaper your loads wind up costing. Post SHTF you probably won't have electricity to run the Lee Production pot. But then again, hopefully you can load up enough before that happens so that you are ready. I also inherited a cast iron melting pot and dipper. In a survivalist situation one could be improvised and lead could be melted using a wood fire, assuming you have some lead. Since the lead in batteries these days could have harmful alloys and you really don't want to have to be out and about scrounging post SHTF anyway, the best thing would be to get a stockpile of lead now. I recently priced lead locally at $.65/lb and wheelweights at $.75/lb. They will go up soon. Get 'em while you can.
I am posting a couple videos about casting the buckshot just to give you an idea. I went faster when I wasn't making the video. It's hard to concentrate on doing something like that and try to make a video at the same time. More details later.
Well, I uploaded 3 videos about casting the buckshot called buckshot_start, buckshot2, and buckshot3. In buckshot2 where I said I didn't think the lead and mold weren't hot enough, that really probably wasn't the problem. What I realized is that sometimes the pour spout gets partly clogged. When the lead comes out too slow, then it cools too quickly - which is similar to the lead not being hot enough to start with. Also, if the distance the lead drops from the pour spout to the mold is too far it cools too quickly - which is similar to the lead not being hot enough to start with. In any of the cases where it cools off too quickly the result is that not all of the cavities will be filled completely. To prevent the pour spout from getting clogged, use purer lead, clean the spout from time to time with a suitably sized paper clip, stir the lead and dip off impurities.
Thursday, February 10, 2011
Dual purpose fixed blades
I think survivalists need to think not only in terms of a utility knife for woodcraft or general survivalist use, I think we need to also think in terms of a back-up self-defense weapon. Here are some knives that I think would serve dual purpose for survivalists:
Ontario Knives
Survival knife .1875" thick 5" blade 1095 carbon steel
M7 bayonet (M16) .1875" thick 6.75" blade 1095 carbon steel
Marine combat .165" thick 7" blade 1095 carbon steel
Mark III trench knife.1875" thick 6.75" blade 1095 carbon steel
Mark 3 Navy .165" thick 6.5" blade 440A stainless steel
Marine bayonet (M16) .200" thick 8" blade prop. carbon steel
SP1 Marine combat .188" thick 7" blade 1095 carbon steel
Spec Plus Fighter .1875" thick 8" blade 1095 carbon steel
Becker knives (mostly made with 0170-6C carbon steel)BK-1 Brute (bolo like) .250" thick 9.5" blade
BK-2 Companion .250" thick 5.25" blade
BK-7 Combat utility .188" thick 5.5" blade
BK-9 Bowie .210" thick 9" blade
BK-10 Crewman utility .188" thick 5.5" blade
Ontario Knives
Survival knife .1875" thick 5" blade 1095 carbon steel
M7 bayonet (M16) .1875" thick 6.75" blade 1095 carbon steel
Marine combat .165" thick 7" blade 1095 carbon steel
Mark III trench knife.1875" thick 6.75" blade 1095 carbon steel
Mark 3 Navy .165" thick 6.5" blade 440A stainless steel
Marine bayonet (M16) .200" thick 8" blade prop. carbon steel
SP1 Marine combat .188" thick 7" blade 1095 carbon steel
Spec Plus Fighter .1875" thick 8" blade 1095 carbon steel
Becker knives (mostly made with 0170-6C carbon steel)BK-1 Brute (bolo like) .250" thick 9.5" blade
BK-2 Companion .250" thick 5.25" blade
BK-7 Combat utility .188" thick 5.5" blade
BK-9 Bowie .210" thick 9" blade
BK-10 Crewman utility .188" thick 5.5" blade
Tuesday, February 8, 2011
Affordable 12ga buckshot loads
I mentioned that I've never reloaded shotgun shells. That is about to change. I'm going to buy a Lee Load All II in 12 ga for about $45 at Widener's. Also a Lyman Shotshell Reloading Handbook 5th ed for $16.50. I already have an order for a Lee 18 cavity 00 buckshot mold from Ebay $47.95 + 7.35 shipping. It will cast enough 00 buckshot in one pour for 2 shells. Buckshot loads are expensive if you buy them!
I already had some lead and some linotype. For emergency use I have a CI pot to melt the lead in and a long handled steel ladle, but for now I think I'll get a Lee electric pot for about $50.
Then, being set up for using lead, it might be a good idea to buy a mold to be able to cast 7.61x39 bullets also. Just wish I had a little more reloadable brass for it. Most of what I have is steel cased or Berdan primed brass.
I already had some lead and some linotype. For emergency use I have a CI pot to melt the lead in and a long handled steel ladle, but for now I think I'll get a Lee electric pot for about $50.
Then, being set up for using lead, it might be a good idea to buy a mold to be able to cast 7.61x39 bullets also. Just wish I had a little more reloadable brass for it. Most of what I have is steel cased or Berdan primed brass.
Saturday, February 5, 2011
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